Incredible India: Part 4 - Food
“Spices are the keys to the Indian heart.” - Yotam Ottolenghi
New Delhi is one of those cities that hits you in the best possible way. The noise, the color, the chaos, and then you take your first bite of something truly extraordinary and nothing else matters.
Delhi's food scene is layered, bold, and unapologetically delicious. Whether you're eating street-side in Chandni Chowk or sitting down to a proper meal, every dish tells you something about this city's history, culture, and intense love of flavor.
Before ever stepping foot in India, I loved Indian food because a lot of the flavor profiles reminded me of Nigerian cuisine and the culture is not afraid of true spice and flavor-backed heat. Perhaps that is part of the reason why I didn’t hesitate to eat anything presented to me and my stomach stayed strong through it all. Ritika and her husband Sahil were excited to have me experience where they were from and a big part of that was knowing how much I loved Indian food. What followed was a few of the most delicious weeks of my life, split between two very different households, with two very different approaches to food.
Week one: Everything is a digestive
The first week I stayed with Sahil's family. They are vegetarian, but I didn’t know that going in. Every meal was built on spice, technique, and time. Dal makhani: Whole black lentils cooked for what Sahil's mother said had been most of the day, finished with butter and cream until the result was silky and smoky and so rich it felt like a meal on its own. There was paneer in a tomato gravy that left everything orange from the turmeric and curry, and a rotating cast of chutneys I couldn't identify but couldn't stop eating. They even taught me how to make dosa, as the family jeered that Ritika doesn’t make roti, but she’ll graciously teach me a perfectly round dosa.
Bhalla with spicy green chutney
For Hindus, vegetarianism runs deep, but not all Hindus are vegetarian. This is mainly shaped by a religious and cultural emphasis on non-harm. The cow in particular is considered sacred: a provider of milk, ghee, curd, and paneer, not something to be eaten. You won't find beef in most homes or restaurants in Delhi, regardless of whether the family is strictly vegetarian or not.
People think vegetarian food is simple, but every meal I had was rich and flavorful, from the bhalla that I fell in love with to the karela (bitter gourd) that seems to hate me, lentils, lobia and yummy chapati.
When you are eating a lot of rich food, proper digestion is also an important consideration. I quickly found out that India has an affinity for digestives, whether they come in the form of certain seeds and spices such as fennel or more complex, such as paan. They all keep you feeling good which is important when it is day after day of eating delicious food.
Week two: Ritika's family, and the streets of Old Delhi
The second week I moved to Ritika's family home. They do eat meat, and Ritika wasted no time. Within hours of arriving she was telling me about the spicy chicken and the mutton that I needed to try. The excitement while discussing taking me to Chandni Chowk, the old walled city's main artery, was palpable. It was fun to experience yet another home and watch them cook. My absolute favorite thing about staying with them is just how delicious their chai was. Even when I got back to the US, every time I saw Ritika, she would ask if I would like some chai before I could utter a word because I became rightfully obsessed. The richness of the flavor is unforgettable.
Paan wrapped up nicely
Paan: A Ritual, Not Just a Snack
Save room after dinner for paan. This is a betel leaf folded around a mix of sweet coconut, fennel seeds, candied fruits, and sometimes a little gulkand (rose petal jam). It's freshly made in seconds at roadside stalls, and the whole experience of watching it being assembled is half the fun. Pop the whole thing in your mouth, chew slowly, and let the cooling, fragrant flavors do their thing. It's the perfect full stop to any Delhi meal.
There are many different places to get good paan, including streetside, but one that was recommended is Odeon Gupta Paan Palace(CP) as it has variations like fire and ice paan. No matter where you land, be prepared to have your mind blown.
Where to Eat: Two Must-Visit Spots
Sagar Ratna is a South Delhi institution that serves vegetarian South Indian food. Their dosas are crisp, their sambar is perfectly balanced, and the prices won't make you wince. You’re left incredibly satisfied.
The Taj Mahal Hotel New Delhi is one of Delhi's most stunning properties, where grand Mughal-inspired architecture and impeccably dressed staff make you feel like you've stepped into another era entirely. The Indian cuisine here is sophisticated and beautifully presented, with dishes like lamb rogan josh and paneer tikka that honor tradition while feeling genuinely special.
What to find on the street
Some that I loved were:
Chole bhature: Spiced chickpea curry with puffed fried bread. Try Sita Ram Diwan Chand in Paharganj.
Pani puri/Golgappa: Crispy shells with ice-cold tamarind water. sometimes varying additions. Eat in one bite.
Ram Ladoo: Savory fritters made from a batter of moong dal (mung bean) lentils.
Stuffed paratha: Butter-fried flatbread with spiced filling you can find in Paranthe Wali Gali, Chandni Chowk.
Daulat ki chaat: Spun cream dusted with saffron. Winter only, gone by noon. Don't sleep in.
Momos: Delicious stuffed dumplings. Do not forget to try the many variations
Delhi will feed you well. Go hungry and curious, pace yourself, and don't skip the paan!
Have you eaten your way through Delhi? Drop your favorite dish in the comments below. I'd love to know what I missed!
